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Proenza Schouler
Why did everyone hate on Proenza Schouler? Alright, so it's not as magically delicious as last season, but it's still pretty fucking sweet. Those coats... Oi vey.


Peter Jensen
Tasteful and twee as ever. All jolly pretty but the only thing that really interested me were these hood/scarf hybrids. Such a clever idea that I feel convinced someone must have done before. In which case, shame on you Peter. Shame on you. If he did indeed conceive this with his own brain, applause all round.


In other news, all three of our magazines just popped up on My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding. So proud. Who says we have a thing about blondes? Just kidding, these are old issues... we're an equal opportunities employer. Did you know only 2% of the world is naturally blonde? I learnt that fact today and although it makes sense when you think about it, it's still interesting. Especially when you consider that blonde is the number one requested colour on the planet. Hair facts, don't you love them? I've got plenty more where that came from.]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100218-222117
Kimberly Ovitz
I fucking loved every look at Kimberly Ovitz, even the bad stuff. Obviously here I've just selected my favourites, all of which I would just like to be wearing right now. The soft oversize leather over the maxi (obv), the asymmetric, drapey jersey, the cobwebby framework, the hairy mohair... babealicious. Shame her frocks are a bit pricey, otherwise I'd be all over NetAPorter.


Malandrino
Malandrino (have we ditched the Catherine?) was right up my street too. Clearly the top knot appeals, as do the big black brows, but otherwise it's the velvet/leather/leopard that's doing it for me. Again, predictable. I'm a simple being.


Marc Jacobs
Nothing to say about Marc that hasn't been said more eloquently elsewhere. All I will say is that I don't think Tavi inspired the glasses, I think my mum did. Seriously, they are identical to my momma's specs.


Oscar De La Renta
I know I'm 30 years too young for ODLR, as I like to call him, but I can't help but love it every season. Amongst all the cocktail gown froof, I really liked the contrasting colour fur and big 80s blow-outs. So many nice coats, unf unf unf. That first red one with the gold chain over the top... oh boy.
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3.1 Philip Lim
Let's talk double denim. Obviously I'm behind it. Anything Bruce Dickinson can do I can do better. Except pilot a jet, fence and sing falsetto. I found this collection pretty hit and miss but I do love a nice jacket, particularly with denim and the leather/leopard number is pretty smart too.

I don't really want to talk about Alexander Wang. Maybe when I've had a good look I'll change my mind but for now, let's move swiftly on.


Alexandre Herchcovitch
If in doubt, go bat shit crazy with accessories. Everyone's saying this was his best yet and I think I agree. ~Punk~ meets traditional costumery of the USSR... how could it not appeal. Wish there were some detail shots on Style.com but I guess I'll have to wait for our catwalk photographer to file back.



Chris Benz said his collection was inspired by "bad girls I knew in high school, the ones who got sent away to wilderness camp. This is what I imagine them wearing." Cliché, obvs, but I'm a sucker. So what? I liked it. It started kinda blah but then hit a high note of weird fur and plaid and ponchos. I can't see any of the bad girls I knew at school wearing this, no matter how much they'd grown up, but still. ]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100218-135029

I had really good intentions to cover NYFW in suitably hardcore style. An empty house, a decent computer, plenty of shows I'm raging for... but then that little thing called work got in the way, there were birthdays, there were leaving dos... and now it's nearly over and we're champing at the bit for LFW?

There's a long overdue post on its way, but tonight I'm apparently celebrating Mardi Gras courtesy of Southern Comfort (my number one least favourite drink) and then... and then it's Friday so who knows. I'll get up to date soon, I promise. For now...]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100213-134618

Let's talk WAYNE. I had no idea until yesterday what WAYNE was, but now I'm kind of obsessed. In England I think the name probably gets a bad rap, largely due to the fact that most people still haven't got over Wayne and Waynetta. Wayne Rooney only adds to the problem. Wayne Lee, however, is a different matter. A Vietnamese designer from a long line of tailors, Wayne grew up in Florida and launched WAYNE in 2007, winning the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation prize in 2008. Past winners include Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler and Derek Lam so that's a pretty decent start.



Anyway, it's love now. Wayne's website says her biggest influences are punk and science fiction so we're half way to being on the right track and her AW10 collection is definitely my bag. There's not really any lengthy reason why, it's just really fucking nice. That orange look right at the top is just... perfect? Nice jersey draping, nice tailoring (obviously) and more nice furry bits. I need to find a fake fox tail to hang off myself, but eBay only has the real deal. I do have a rocking horse tail lying around somewhere, perhaps that could be incorporated.

Much as I like it, I have to make it clear right now that I will not be getting behind the return of camo print which I have now seen twice in as many days at NYFW, including at WAYNE. Too soon, guys, too soon.

PS Check out the WAYNE website]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100213-125423

There are few words for how much I hate the hair at Jen Kao (and I'm a fan of a short fringe usually), but I did enjoy the collection itself so I guess the bad hair is forgiven.



As a general rule I always think the Brits do knitwear better than anyone else. It's probably something historical -- we have more experience of sheep/dark satanic mills etc.than most, after all. There are so many brilliant British knitwear designers that I quite often discount the rest of the world with regard to wool but more fool me because American designers like Jen Kao are really fucking good at it. I have to admit that I'm not too familiar with Jen, but if she's good enough for fangirl Julia Restoin-Roitfeld then I suppose that's good enough for the rest of us. I really like the textural quality of her sexy/tough cable knits, apparently inspired by Moby Dick?? Hmm. I also am obsessed with the little rabbit fur (sorry) and leather/mesh flippy dress. I guess it's a little awkward around the hips but I'm still pretty physced on it. The other stand out look for me, in terms of textural interest at least, is the fine knit top and trousers, above. If it was an all in one it would be off the hook: if you squint, you can pretend it is. Like a sexier version of the AA long johns. I don't have much time for the trousers because they remind me of something from Dash (not that one) but the top is really nice and I love the combination of leather-trim zip with the fine knit. The strapwork on the crochet bralet is really neat too.

This is one of those shows where I suggest you look it up on Vogue.co.uk where you can zoom in really closely, because for me it's all the about the details that you can't really see on these full-lengths. Here's a link straight to it.]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100213-121928

I don't care much for Charlotte Ronson, but I definitely liked the fetching long skirts swooshing along at her show. Regular readers will be aware that Iso and I are probably equally obsessed with maxi (mus Decimus Meridius) skirts, although I'm not convinced they'll ever catch on with actual cool people. As someone with Victorian sensibilities about revealing flesh I'm obviously all for them.

I like the fact that Charlotte's skirts are totally identical to the type I wore with my velvet bucket hat and waistcoat circa 1994. I bet they even have those small bells on the end of the drawstrings.]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100212-134841

Coloured hair seems to be hanging around for yet another season. Hurrah! At Vena Cava yesterday the mighty Ted Gibson created scruffy ponies with chunky coloured extensions clipped through. I'm not so convinced on the neon pink but the purple looks great and when I get proper pics through from the show I'll be interested to see which other shades they used. So good how far clip-in extensions have come! We're doing something at work at the moment in reaction to the call for them to be banned (see BBC report) but even so, I've always been a fan of the humble clip-in. No one ever believes it until you see them done properly (ie, well) but they're fucking awesome these days. Andrew Barton did some the other week at a launch and my esteemed colleague Charles had some put in by the mighty Anita Cox McMillan just the other day... they look great, definitely the easiest/quickest way to get nice looking colour in 2010.

Pic: Frisky]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100212-132446

It seems like only yesterday I was talking about the Shangri Las... Anyone with half a brain cell can see that the hair and makeup for John Patrick's Organic line (shown yesterday at NYFW) had a hint of Mary Weiss and co, but to my mind that whole first look could have come off the cover of some long-lost LP.

John Patrick described the collection as being "a Joni Mitchell-slash-Sloane Ranger thing" but aside from all the tweed I'm not entirely convinced of his reasoning. This look in particular confuses me. From the waist up it's perfect, but from the waist down... boot cut leather pants? I'll pass thanks, although I guess that's where the Sloane aspect comes into play.

Anyway, my personal tastes aside, you have to wonder why more designers still aren't bothering with organic/sustainable collections. John proves that they don't have to look boring and shit. Yeah, his collection might be on the small side and it's not exactly ground-breaking, but he shows pretty succinctly that it's possible to do a show without being irresponsible with your resources. I wonder how many decades it's going to take for others to get on board? ]]> http://www.lewisgibson.co.uk/rachael/web/blog/index.php?entry=entry100211-223947

I've spent most of this weird depressing evening tumblring pictures of Claudia Cardinale. Nice hair makes death less miserable? Along with every single member of the Shangri Las, she's something of an inspiration. I love this 60s cover. It's basically the inspiration for my day to day look. Anyway, I found this cover of her from an ancient edition of Lui and while I'm around 99.9% sure her pink hair is just down to the lighting, it does kind of look like she has nice colour.

There are a million pictures of her on this site, but I do suggest that if you're not familiar with her you check out my tumblr too. Not just saying that because I'm attempting to bring it back to life, there are some really nice pictures of Claudia.

Also, can any brains tell me what film this still is from?

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